Faro Palascìa
Punta Palascia, or Capo d'Otranto, is the easternmost point of Italy. Here, where the Adriatic meets the Ionian and merge, a white lighthouse stands on the coast overlooking the sea, surrounded on one side by the scents of the Mediterranean scrub and on the other by the silvery shimmer of the rolling waves.
Its history
The crypt of Santa Marina and Cristina, also known as the Church of the Madonna delle Grazie, is a rock-hewn church in Carpignano Salentino. It houses a cycle of frescoes that are among the oldest in Puglia.
The crypt, entirely carved into the limestone rock, is preceded by a narthex and divided into two naves. Originally, the naves were separated by two columns, but following the collapse of one, three smaller ones were built.
On the western wall of the narthex, frescoes depict Saint Blaise, Saint Anthony the Abbot, and Saint Marina. The fresco depicting the saint, flanked by a dragon, dates back to the 18th century and replaced an earlier one that had faded. It was customary for local mothers to rub their children's handkerchiefs or undershirts over the image to protect them from hepatitis and jaundice. However, following restoration, traces of a wing were found and at the foot of the fresco a drawing of mice: in all probability the original fresco depicted the Archangel Michael, but, being ruined, a different interpretation was given over the centuries, which led to the belief that it was Saint Margaret, painted in the 18th century. Along the north wall of the narthex there is an arcosolium tomb: thanks to a metrical inscription in Greek it is explained that this was built by a Byzantine dignitary to house his mortal remains but that instead it was then used to bury his young son called by the nickname Stratigoulès, who probably died between 1065 and 1080. The father is probably buried near his son's tomb. At the center of the arcosolium is a fresco of Saint Christina, while under the arch is the Virgin and Child and Saint Nicholas, portrayed in the act of blessing: the paintings date back to a period between 1050 and 1075. Then follows a Baroque-style altar, added in 1775: this is surmounted by an oval that rests directly on the wall where an image of the Madonna and Child is frescoed, retouched several times over the years.
Along the north wall of the church are frescoes of Saint Nicholas, Saint Vincent, a Madonna and Child, where Mary appears wrapped in a red veil, Saint John the Evangelist, two images of Saint Christina, one wearing a crown, Saint Theodore, depicted on horseback, and other unidentified saints. The artist signed the works with the name Constantine and they were painted between 1050 and 1055.
On a west pillar are frescoes of Saint Theodore, Saint Nicholas, and Saint Christina: Saint Theodore appears with a long beard and a dark cloak.
The east wall, where the high altar is located, features two apses. The left apse features the so-called Eustathius Group, named after the painter who painted it. In the center is an enthroned Christ, likely modeled after the one in the right apse. On the right is a Madonna with the Child resting on her lap, depicted with an adult-like face. On the left is the Archangel Michael, dressed in a loros and holding a scepter in one hand and a globe in the other. The fresco is dated 1020.
The right apse features the oldest fresco cycle in the crypt, dating to the year 6467, or 969. The names of both the patrons—the priest Leo and his wife Chrysolea—and the painter, Theophylact, are listed, giving rise to the name of the Gruppo di Teofilatto.
The fresco's theme is the Annunciation, the only one in the church dedicated to the stories of Jesus[5]: in the center is Christ on the throne, dressed in purple and gold[3], with his right hand in the act of blessing and in his left hand holding the Gospel. On the left is the Madonna holding a spindle, a symbol of virginity, and on the right is the Archangel Gabriel with his arm raised and his hand in blessing.
Between the two apses, there are some traces of a fresco depicting Saint Anne holding Mary as a child; there is also a niche, probably used to store bread and wine during celebrations, frescoed with a liturgical tablecloth with fringes and dark crosses on a white background. The high altar is also located between the two apses.
Visits to the crypt of Santa Cristina are by reservation only. Please contact the Nea Carpiniana Association at +39 339 4402579 (also via WhatsApp) or by email at carpiniana@gmail.com.
Reservations are available during the following hours: 9:00 AM - 12:30 PM / 5:00 PM - 7:30 PM.
Please note that the date and time of your appointment must be agreed upon, as they are subject to the availability of members, who operate on an exclusively voluntary basis. Therefore, the association cannot guarantee the opening of the crypt without a reservation.
Out of respect for the antiquity and sacred nature of the site, respectful conduct and proper clothing are recommended.
Entry is limited to a maximum of 15 people.
Photography and filming, even with a cell phone, are prohibited by express order of the Archbishop's Office of Otranto.
